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By Amy Zhang July 13, 2022 in Travel No Comments

Sicily Guide

As promised, following my highly requested Puglia Guide is my Sicily guide! We visited Sicily after getting married in Puglia and kicking off our mini-moon there. I will definitely admit that part of me wishes we had stayed in Puglia longer to see more of the region and also move around less. In my 20’s I loved being go, go, go! when traveling, but now I prefer not having to unpack and repack every day and would rather avoid jumping on a plane or train too frequently.

However, at the end of the day I’m very happy we decided to visit Sicily. The most frequent question I got was whether I preferred Puglia or Sicily, and the answer is it’s really hard to say because it’s truly an apples-to-oranges comparison! If you have time, I would really suggest you break them into two entirely separate trips. Read on for all the details on our time in Sicily – what we did, saw, ate, and what we wished we knew before our trip!

Sicily Guide

What You Need to Know Before Visiting Sicily

+ Sicily is a very large island – it’s the largest island in the Mediterranean sea!

Where I think you could technically see most of Puglia in a week (you’d still be rushed, in my opinion, but it’s doable!), there’s so much ground to cover in Sicily I think it would honestly take a month to see the entire island, and even then you’d probably be missing so much of it. We were in Sicily for a little under a week and barely scratched the surface of the eastern coast (which is where we spent most of our time).

However, there is a lot more information readily available on Sicily online! Most guides will suggest you either visit the north and west sides of the island (Palermo and surrounding areas), or stick to more to the east and southern parts of the island (Taormina, Noto, and surrounding areas). That doesn’t even cover all of the smaller islands off the coasts of Sicily that are supposed to be absolutely beautiful!

+ You will need a car.

Preferably a small one! Although Sicily is fairly developed, with several larger cities, there isn’t really public transportation or a train system to get around the island. Towns are fairly spaced apart and if you want to do any sightseeing at all you will need to rent a car or hire a private driver. I was also surprised by some of the roads in Sicily. It’s so important to stay on main freeways if you can and to be very careful of Google Maps and double-check to make sure you’re on an autostrada if possible.

We had a scary experience at night when it was already dark, and the road ahead of us just simply… ended. From reading various travel forums, apparently, that is not uncommon! In addition to keeping an eye out on the roads, you’ll also want to keep an eye out for the other drivers on the road. On that note, this brings me to a very important word of caution…

Driving in Sicily is crazy. There’s no other way to describe it. It’s certainly an experience, but having a car is really the best way to see the island. The overall driving style can feel chaotic if you’re coming from the states. Many people don’t use turn signals, drivers will pass aggressively, and roundabouts seem to operate without rhyme or reason. Once you get the hang of driving it isn’t so bad, but it will take some adjusting. This article was so helpful for us to orient ourselves with some of the rules and norms!

+ The overall pace is slower.

Life moves at a slower pace in Sicily, and it’s not a bad thing. Try not to be too ambitious with your schedules. Don’t plan on visiting more than one (maybe 2) towns in a day. There’s a lot of driving involved in exploring Sicily. Also, with restaurants and stores being closed in the afternoon, you won’t want to feel too rushed or get caught during a siesta hour.

+ Sicily is very different than Italy.

Although Sicily is technically part of Italy, the island has a very rich history and culture that is separate from Italy. Sicily has been occupied by the Greeks, Arabs, Normans, Bourbons, and finally the Italians. Today, Sicily essential functions autonomously from Italian, the Sicilian language differs from Italy, and the overall island feels very, very different from other parts of Italy.

How to Get to Sicily

There are a few ways to get to Sicily! Keep in mind it does take an extra step to get to since it is an island. From major airports, you’ll be able to fly easily into Palermo or Catania. If you are in the south of Italy, you can also take a ferry or even drive! I would recommend flying and picking up a rental car directly from the airport for the easiest route. It’s an easy hour and a half flight from Rome or Southern Italy, and we also noticed flights to/from Milan at the airport.

Ragusa, Sicily Ortigia, Sicily | The Luxi Look

Where We Stayed

Where you stay is so important, considering how vast the island is and how you will likely be driving around and doing several excursions. We focused our trip along the eastern side of the island. I would suggest Taormina, Catania, or Noto as popular bases. Although, you really could stay anywhere, as long as you are willing to drive! We debated staying in Taormina as most of the sites we wanted to see were further south. We ended up landing on an Airbnb in Acrieale (a city outside of Catania) for a couple of nights rather than Taormina and then moved to a hotel outside of Noto.

Taormina

We did consider hotels in Taormina. Of course, the Belmond hotels came very highly recommended and are probably the nicest options in Taormina, although there are of course more budget-friendly hotels and Airbnbs. Personally, I did not really care for Taormina. I found the city to be crowded, full of tourists, overpriced, and very difficult to get in and out of.

Acireale

+ We actually loved our base in Acireale. It felt like a proper city with a ton of conveniences we were missing about home after being on the road for two weeks. We were able to stop at a supermarket for some groceries. We also got our laundry done at a local laundromat (about 10 euros for a large bag of laundry). Also, because we were out and about so much we didn’t want to spend too much on a fancy hotel and not enjoy or use any of the amenities. Oddly enough, after being away from home for a couple of weeks, it felt really relaxing to be living in a house and not a hotel.

+ Dimora Delle Balze

The final leg of our trip was spent at Dimora Delle Balze, which may be one of the most natural and beautiful hotels I’ve ever stayed at. We loved the space and the breakfast spread was divine, however, the overall hospitality did feel a bit lacking. To be honest, we kind of experienced this all around Southern Italy and Sicily at the hotels we stayed at. Nothing egregious or even bad. But considering how much hotels are charging per night, we did expect a little more warmth and hospitality from the nicer hotels we stayed at. I can’t really isolate the experience to one hotel or region. It was very consistent over the course of two weeks.

What to Do in Sicily

There is so much to do in Sicily given the vastness of the island, how developed it is, and how much history and culture there is to take in from thousands of years. Depending on your interests and preferences, it really is a choose your own adventure. This list is limited to the eastern side of Sicily as we did not have time to visit Palermo or any of the western towns/cities this trip.

+ Spend a day in Taormina

I know I just said it wasn’t my favorite, but hear me out! I still think it is very much worth visiting for a day. Also, I personally would not base myself there because of how far it is from other attractions and the toll roads (you can’t avoid them getting in and out of the city). There’s a lot to do and see in a single day. Start at the bottom of the island and visit Isola Bella if you are a beach lover. Because the city is on a cliff on the eastern coast of the island, you will get the most sun in the morning.

As the sun sets in the afternoon, the beach does not receive as much sun. You can make your way to the top of the city (the cable car is easy and affordable, and a fun view!). I heard from several people comparisons to Positano. Don’t get me wrong, Taormina is GORGEOUS but very different from Positano and the Amalfi Coast. I really wouldn’t compare the two. And if you’re dying to visit Positano, I would personally recommend just going there rather than going to Taormina.

Once you are in the town, grab a granita at Bam Bar (sadly closed Mondays when we were there) and wander through the streets. Taormina has great shopping, there are many adorable shops and even some designer boutiques!

There’s also a short hike to Madonna della Rocca where you’ll get an even better view of the coast. If you are interested in archeological sites, be sure to check out the Greek Theater. If you need to cool off, head to Grand Hotel Timeo for an aperol spritz.

+ Day trip to Syracuse/Ortigia

I put these together because although they are separate entities, they are essentially connected and you may not even realize it when you’ve crossed over from Syracuse to the island of Ortigia. I would recommend Syracuse if you are really interested in history and archeological sites.

+ Day trip to Modica/Ragusa

My favorite towns we visited in Sicily! You can also combine these into a day trip (they are less than 30 minutes apart, which is fairly close in Sicily) or do them separately. I found both of these towns to be incredibly charming to simply walk around and explore. Modica is famous for its Sicilian chocolate – Antica Dolceria Bonajuto is an absolute must! Some of the best chocolate I’ve ever had in my entire life.

Ragusa is a complete gem, the feeling of walking through the streets was entirely magical. I would honestly return to Sicily just to live in Ragusa for a month, I loved it so much. We also randomly stumbled into a restaurant that ended up being one of the best meals we had in Sicily (after having some disappointing meals in Taormina!).

+ Visit Noto

Noto felt, to us, to be a younger and trendy city. Despite its deep history and rich baroque architecture, the city was buzzing around dusk with many young couples and groups of friends having aperitivo or sitting down for dinner. The restaurant scene was lively and modern. Definitely would recommend spending time here or even choosing Noto as a home base for a few nights!

Valley of Temples, Sicily | The Luxi Look

+ Valle dei Templi (Valley of Temples)

I’ll be honest, I don’t go crazy over ruins or archeological sites. However, this was a highlight of our trip! It’s a bit of a drive from Noto and requires its own day, but you can easily combine it with seeing Scala di Turchi (more on that below). These are some of the best preserved Greek ruins outside of Greece. There’s so much history to explore here and is really a sight to see. I’d recommend the day trip/excursion if this is something of interest.

+ Scala di Turchi

After visiting Valle dei Templi, I would suggest driving to Scala di Turchi. Unfortunately, due to vandalism earlier in 2022, the rock formation has been closed off to visitors and you can only look at it now (in the past you could walk on the formation). The beaches nearby are beautiful sandy beaches, which can be hard to find! The southern coast had the most beautiful beaches we saw in Sicily and is must-visit destination for beach lovers.

+ Hiking Mount Etna

This is a full-day excursion but highly recommended. We ran out of time to do this but it is high on our list if we ever returned.

+ Wine tasting

We didn’t engage in any wine tasting this trip, but I do remember loving Sicilian wine. There are so many options for wine tasting, I feel like this could be an entire trip in and of itself!

Where to Eat

Our meals were very hit or miss in Sicily. However, we were very surprised by the amount of fine dining and Michelin-starred restaurants that were scattered throughout the island. We heard from several friends that their experiences at high end restaurants in Sicily were phenomenal. It’s certainly a great destination for fine dining! Below are the meals we had and enjoyed, keep in mind they are spread all over!

+ Eat granita (with brioche)!

Essentially shaved ice meets ice cream and is a popular breakfast choice. I had this everyday, you’re basically eating ice cream for breakfast. It gets so hot in Sicily in the summer, granita is the perfect way to cool off. For breakfast, almond or pistachio are popular flavors (you can even get almond mixed with coffee, which is delicious!). Fruit granitas such as lemon or strawberry are more popular in the afternoon. I ate this every chance I got – our favorites were at Caffe Sicilia in Noto and Caffe Cipriani in Acireale.

+ Pastries

Sicilian pastries are delicious! At the very least, you need to try cannoli (ricotta filling is my favorite) and an assortment of cookies/cakes. I fell in love with cassata cake – soaked sponge cake layered with ricotta and candied fruits

+ Caseificio Borderi

Sandwich shop in Ortigia, you get a massive sandwich for around 8 euros. You can specify the ingredients you’re interested in or have it “chef’s choice” style – either way you really can’t go wrong.

+ Noto

Manna came highly recommended for dinner in Noto, we enjoyed our meal here and found the menu to be straightforward, with modern twists on classic Sicilian dishes. Would definitely suggest making a reservation here.

+ Accursio

Michelin-starred restaurant in Modica that came recommended by our hotel. Al Duomo in Ragusa also came highly recommended, but we ran out of time. Reservations are recommended for both! If you have a hard time making one, you can always ask your hotel or Airbnb host to help (sometimes they only take reservations by phone)

+ Osteria Imperfetta

Nonpretentious restaurant in Ragusa that we stumbled across, family run and simply so charming. The truffle pasta and caponata were divine. I would eat here every day if I could.

As I mentioned above, you really could spend months in Sicily exploring the island. A week hardly felt like enough! It’s fairly mixed which part of Sicily is ideal for a first-time visitor. The east (where we were!) has more beautiful towns and more archeological sites, while I hear the west has better street food and beaches. I’d love to hear your thoughts if you’ve visited Sicily! As always, this is a living guide and will be updated as we learn more about the island and hopefully revisit soon.

By Amy Zhang July 9, 2022 in Travel 1 Comment

Puglia Guide

We recently came back from our wedding trip and mini moon in Puglia (sooo many wedding details to share separately!!), which was our favorite trip to date. Aside from the obvious highlight of getting married in Puglia, we’ve completely fallen in love with the region and are already planning our next trip back. I also may or may not have spent an inordinate amount of time looking at property, dreaming of opening our own masseria (someday!). In the meantime, I’ve received so many questions about our trip and am so excited to finally share all the details in a single place!

The Ultimate Puglia Guide For Chic Travelers

Although Puglia has been steadily increasing in popularity over the past decade, visiting the region still feels unlike most other parts of Italy. Notably, it feels significantly less touristy and is still fairly underdeveloped (Puglia is traditionally one of the poorest regions in Italy, with an emphasis on agriculture – much of the produce in the country is grown there!). While the summers are very lively, tourism felt to us to be primarily locals and Italians. We saw (and heard) very few English speakers or Americans, which may or may not be your preference.

In some of the smaller towns in Puglia, you might even be hard-pressed to find someone who speaks English (thankfully this isn’t a huge issue with Google Translate being available). It’s not quite a hidden gem anymore, as much as I am sure many people would love for it to stay that way, but is still very much a gem. I describe Puglia as magical to everyone I speak to. I feel like we could spend months there and not even begin to scratch the surface of everything there is to do and see. Here’s everything we learned and loved about Puglia, and some tips for planning your future trip!

HOW TO GET TO PUGLIA

Getting to Puglia takes an extra step, but I promise it is worth it! The easiest way to get to Puglia is to fly into Rome and then either take a short flight or train ride to Bari or Brindisi. If you’re already based in Europe, there are many direct flights to Bari and Brindisi depending on where you are coming from. For Americans, flying into Rome will be your best bet. We spent a night in Rome on the way in and two nights outside of Rome at the end of our trip and really liked splitting up the travel this way. It helps that Rome is one of our favorite cities and you can surprisingly get a lot of sightseeing done in one day! Some of our wedding guests flew into Rome and then connected to Bari/Brindisi and preferred getting directly to their final destination.

Take the train from Rome.

If you do choose to spend time in Rome, I would personally recommend taking the train for convenience and peace of mind. Flights and trains can be surprisingly priced similarly, but you get the benefit of a shorter trip to the train station vs. a longer ride to Fiumicino Airport. Also, given all of the flight horror stories I’ve heard lately and the general discomfort around air travel, the train is likely to be less delayed than a flight (from our experience in June 2022).

We honestly found taking the train to be a breeze – you can show up at the train station 15 minutes before your train departs and you don’t have to worry about bag weight limits and liquids. WiFi was spotty but the trip was fast and comfortable, going forward we would definitely opt to take a high speed train over rolling our dice with a flight anyday.

You can drive from Rome.

Finally, you also have the option of driving from Rome to Puglia (Rome to Bari takes between 4-5 hours) – this is great if you love a road trip and want to stop along the way. We’ve done this drive and I have to admit it’s very long and windy, and Italian drivers can be a bit crazy. Driving in Rome is undeniably not for the faint of heart!

what you need to know before visiting Puglia

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE BEFORE VISITING PUGLIA

Once you are in Puglia, my biggest piece of advice is to rent a car. You will need a car to get around! Taxis and private cars are hard to come by and extremely expensive (think up to 50 Euros for a 20 minute trip, the pricing is also all over the place and you might be getting ripped off for being a tourist / not speaking Italian). Puglia is also a massive region. There is so much to do and see and getting from point A to point B requires a car. We found most of the sights and towns we wanted to see to be between 15 minutes to an hour away by car. I truly don’t know how we would have gotten around without a car!

Unfortunately, we experienced higher than usual prices. Rental cars are through the roof ever since the pandemic. However if you’re able to drive stick/manual you’ll save a ton of money. We’ve also noticed rental car companies will try to sell you an upgrade. Which tends to be a bigger but nicer car – consider turning this down as many of the towns have extremely narrow alleys you need to drive through, and parking spaces are quite small.

Make time for all the hidden gems in Puglia.

Part of the beauty of Puglia, for us, was how many hidden gems are tucked into little towns and corners across the region. We found information on Puglia to be, relative to other parts of Italy, fairly sparse and limited. When we got engaged in 2019 and visited Puglia the first time, we had a hard time finding lists of restaurants, cafes, and beaches to visit. Exploring Puglia for ourselves, driving aimlessly amongst the olive groves and stopping along the way for an aperitivo or espresso, was one of the joys of Puglia. A much slower pace than what we are used to in the states, we felt Puglia truly encompassed “dolce far niente” – the sweetness of doing nothing.

With that said, I think it’s important to note how large and diverse the region is!

I truly believe you wouldn’t be able to see everything in a month, much less a week. I would recommend splitting a trip into the northern or southern parts of Puglia and choosing a home base accordingly. Ostuni is a great home base for exploring the north, while Lecce is a great base for the south. The north has cute towns and felt more developed, you’re also much closer to Matera (which we haven’t visited yet but have heard is a must!), while the south has access to better beaches.

WHERE WE STAYED

Because this was our wedding trip and “mini moon” we splurged a little more than usual on nicer hotels. Don’t get me wrong, I love a luxurious hotel, but when we travel we tend to prefer exploring and sightseeing over parking ourselves in a resort. Thanks to years of working in consulting and our Chase Sapphire Reserve, we were able to book most of our hotels over our 2.5 week trip in Italy on points! I’m happy we spent a bit more on hotels as it was important for getting good rest before the wedding. The week after the wedding we were physically and emotionally exhausted, so we ended up laying around more than usual, and I was grateful to be very comfortable where we stayed!

Paragon 700

We chose this hotel in the heart of Ostuni for the 2 nights before our wedding due to its proximity to our venue and stated amenities. We also read several glowing reviews in different publications online. Aesthetically, the hotel is very unique, but we ended up in an unfortunate room (essentially the attic with only 2 tiny windows for natural light) and found the staff to be indifferent at best, and at times rude (to put it gently). The prices for the restaurant and bar on site were also on par with LA/New York, which for Ostuni is very high.

I wouldn’t stay here again or really recommend it. I think staying at an authentic masseria is a much better local experience and there are so many great family run options! However, it is probably the most “luxurious” and newest hotel in Ostuni, and I did get several DMs/inquiries on where we were staying. If you want a five star resort experience, I would recommend Borgo Egnazia (below). Truthfully, we would have preferred to book a room there, but they were closed to the public due to a full property buy out for the entire weekend before our wedding.

Masseria Grieco (our wedding venue)

I could do an entire post on our experience planning a wedding in Puglia and speak more to our venue specifically. For this trip, we stayed two nights at our wedding venue. Keep in mind if you are visiting Puglia in May, June, or September many masserias and hotels may be partially or fully booked for weddings. Most venues will not host July or August weddings, as these tend to be popular months for holiday in Europe.

We would have loved the option to stay an extra night at our venue, or extend that option to our guests. However our masseria was holding back to back weddings (with full property buyouts required). So we did end up feeling rushed in and out. We were a bit surprised and taken aback by the constant flow of weddings. The staff overall felt a bit impersonal and inhospitable despite the fact we were having our wedding there and had bought out the entire property. There are so many local masserias, with new ones opening every year. I don’t think I would stay here again or suggest someone on holiday to stay here outside of the months of July or August.

Borgo Egnazia

Probably the most well known resort in Puglia, Borgo Egnazia really sets the standard for luxury and service in Puglia but would hold its own anywhere in Italy. It really is a special place, you step onto the property and are instantly transported to vacation mode. From the white washed buildings, to bougainvillea covering every corner. To the glittering blue pools, Borgo Egnazia is a breathtakingly stunning property. We also took full advantage of their spa and fitness center. Plus love their take on a traditional Puglian breakfast with modern twists (the only green juice I had in Puglia!).

During the summer season, the resort can feel quite busy and crowded. There are also a lot of families on the property (bonus points if you want something family friendly!). Not a bad thing at all, but if you’re looking for a quiet and intimate Puglian experience, you may want to find a local masseria with fewer rooms. If you’re looking for luxury and a resort like experience (you literally don’t have to leave the property), Borgo is an incredible base. It’s also a fantastic home base for exploring Ostunia and other local towns. It’s close to the seaside town of Savelletri (where we had some of the best seafood I’ve ever had in my life!).

Masseria Moroseta

I stumbled across Masseria Moroseta on Instagram years ago and had it bookmarked for our wedding trip to stay at. If you’re looking to stay here you will likely need to reserve your room a year in advance. I looked last October for June and there was only 1 night available during our trip remaining! There are only 6 rooms on the property and Instagram fame certainly doesn’t help your chances of booking.

The property is truly stunning, there’s nothing else like it in Puglia that I’ve seen! A traditional masseria experience but with so many thoughtful modern touches mixed in with authentic components. The exterior and pool are really the most eye catching parts of the masseria. I will admit the rooms are simple and plainly renovated. But you’ll want to spend time by the pool or out exploring anyway!

\They host dinner on site 4 nights a week, which is a delightful experience if you are able to partake. However, if you happen to be staying on site one of the other nights, the main communal spaces close at 8pm which did feel quite early to us. All the more reason to drive to Ostuni for dinner, conveniently only 10 minutes away!

Palazzo Daniele

My favorite hotel we stayed in Puglia! Passed down for generations in a family and converted to a 9 room boutique hotel (with many of the original details still in tact!). Palazzo Daniele is tucked away in Gagliano del Campo – a tiny town in the southern region of Puglia, Salento. The hotel has thoughtful touches and amenities throughout, truly a local hidden oasis. The one thing to note is the prices were truly exhorbitant. We avoided having breakfast (45 euros for a simple continental breakfast) or aperitivo on site. There were a couple local pastry shops and cafes right outside that we would walk to in the morning for an Italian pastry and cappuccino before driving up and down the coast to explore. Would absolutely stay here again in a heartbeat though.

Airbnb is also an option!

For future trips, I would look to mix in renting an Airbnb or villa with friends! There are so many great options ranging from authentic and affordable, to incredibly luxurious.

WHAT TO DO IN PUGLIA

There is so much to do in Puglia! I can’t even begin to claim I am an expert. But here are some of the things we did and loved, and what we wished we did or had time to do (saved for our next trip!).

+ Explore the towns of Puglia

Remember, the key is dolce far niente – the sweetness of doing nothing! Days in Puglia are slow and relaxed, you might not squeeze in a lot of sightseeing and that’s ok! If your home base is near Ostuni, you can easily do day trips to Polignano a Mare, Monopoli, Alberobello, and even Matera. Polignano a Mare and Alberobello are touristy, but I still found them to be very charming and worth a visit!

We also loved some of the smaller, lesser known towns – Locorotundo, Cisternino, and Martina Franca. They were beautiful and unique places to wander around and stop for a gelato or afternoon refreshment. There isn’t much to do per se, but it’s nice on a hot summer day to find a piazza and stop for a coffee (espresso after 11am!) or an aperol spritz and people watch.

Alberobello will by far have the most crowds and tour buses. So go early or later in the day to avoid crowds. Yes, it felt a little Disneyland-esque but the trullis are so unique. Also local to Puglia it’s a fun half day trip.

+ Visit the beaches

Puglia can get hot in the summer, and we happened to visit during a June heat wave. Make your way south and explore the beaches – we found the best beaches to be in the south of Puglia. The eastern coast has beautiful but rocky beaches, while the sandy beaches are on the west side. Both are worth exploring! There are so many little beaches and coves, we didn’t even begin to scratch the surface. But here are the beaches/beach towns we had bookmarked or were recommended by locals: Punta Prosciutto, Grotta Verde, Grotta della Poesia, Torre dell’Orso, Torre Sant’Andrea, Marina di Pescoluse, Porto Badisco, Castro Marina, Marina Serra, Santa Cesarea Terme. Clearly, there are a lot! You’ll want to pack a towel, umbrella/shade, lots of sunscreen, and snacks/water for the beach! Unless you choose to make your way to a lido…

+ Find a lido

Chances are you’ve seen photos of matching colorful beach umbrellas along a beach on social media. These are lidos, or private beach clubs in Italy. They range from fairly basic and inexpensive, to very luxurious and high end. The lidos in Puglia are much cheaper than say, a lido in Capri or Positano. They are also generally more simple. You rent a chair for the day and have access to a locker, bathrooms, shower, and on site restaurant but they tend to be no frills. You can rent two chairs for the day for between 20 and 40 euros.

I have heard in Capri there are minimum spends of several hundred euros a day. This was not the case when we visited years ago, so goes to show how much tourism drives prices. This trip we did not visit many lidos. We only spent a half day at Bagno Marino Archi (recommended by our hotel) and found it to be a great place to get some sun, relax, and dip into the sea.

+ Visit Matera

I mentioned Matera briefly above. We unfortunately still have not visited but it’s high on the list for our next trip! A city built of stones and rocks, Matera is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and may look very familiar from the most recent James Bond movie, No Time to Die. Matera is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world. It holds so much history and culture in its walls.

+ Take a cooking class

I’m a huge fan of taking cooking classes abroad, Italy is of course a wonderful place to do one! We usually look on Airbnb Experiences for highly rated local cooking classes, in Puglia our wedding planner recommended Puglia Kitchen. The local Puglian experience will obviously include making orecchiette and foccacia, and tasting local cheeses and meats (Puglia is famous for their burrata!!).

+ Rent a boat or do a boat tour

As mentioned above, there are so many hidden beaches and coves along the coast. Some you can only reach by boat! Our favorite days on vacation are often boat days. Whether you rent a private boat or do a larger group tour, boat days are always memorable and a fun activity for the summer.

WHERE TO EAT IN PUGLIA

We honestly didn’t have a bad meal in Puglia. The cuisine is certainly more rustic than other regions of Italy. But the freshness of local produce and emphasis on fresh ingredients adds to the appeal of local Puglian cuisine. We did end up eating at our hotels a lot out of convenience. Again, we were exhausted and lazier than usual! But we did venture out when we could. Here are some of the meals that really stood out to me that we enjoyed:

+ Ristorante Da Silve

Probably our favorite dining experience in Puglia! Run by Silve himself tucked away in Fasano, there are only a handful of tables and no menu. Silve’s mama cooks a multi course meal for you filled with love. You really feel like you are inside his home having the most authentic Puglian meal. It’s such a special experience. I hesitate to share because it’s such a small space but it’s truly a can’t miss if you are staying north or near Ostuni.

+ Osteria del Tempo Perso

Intimate dinner spot in the heart of Ostuni. We loved our dinner here, the menu is restrained and every dish is delicious. The portion sizes are reasonable so you should be able to try a few dishes! I really loved my spaghetti vongole here. I was on the hunt for the best spaghetti vongole in Italy and used it as an excuse to have it almost every meal – really can’t get enough!.

+ Osteria del Porto

You can’t go wrong with any of the restaurants in Savelletri, the emphasis in this town is seafood. Kind of obvious, but only have seafood when you are close to the water, otherwise stick with land based dishes. We noticed a huge difference in the quality of fish/seafood when we were dining in seaside towns. I had one of the best uni pastas of my life here. The restaurant was so lively even at 10pm on a weekday. Everyone spoke Italian and I wanted to try everything that came out. The atmosphere overall was so delightful, I would eat here every night if I could.

+ Classe 18

If you find yourself in Otranto in the south, there are several good seafood options. However we were recommended Classe 18 by our hotel. We enjoyed the seafood dishes here (spaghetti vongole for me, obviously) and found the prices to be reasonable despite how touristy Otranto is, and how we had read online there is no good food in the town!

+ Trattoria Iolanda

Another local recommendation from our hotel, this was an authentic Puglian trattoria experience. We had a 4 hour dinner here and had to utilize Google translate exclusively. It’s tucked away in a small town and was a lively local trattoria featuring Puglian. Specialties such as chicory and broad beans, horse meat (!!) pasta, and grilled meats. This was our last meal in Puglia, but a very authentic and memorable one at that!

I hope you enjoyed this Puglia Guide!

Writing this post made me so nostalgic for Puglia. Obviously I am a bit biased because we got married here. But it really is such a special and magical part of Puglia. Once you experience it you really understand it, I can’t recommend it highly enough to anyone who asks! There’s still so much to explore, do, see, eat. My hope is for this to be an ongoing guide that is updated sooner rather than later.

Stay tuned for the next part of my trip recap, Sicily!

See more travel guides HERE.

By Amy Zhang August 18, 2021 in Travel 2 Comments

Paradero Hotel Review

An hour north of Cabo lies the town of Todos Santo, a hidden gem to many American tourists, but not to locals. Todos Santos is one of Mexico’s designated “Pueblos Magicos” – literally translated to magic towns. This status is given by the Mexican government to recognize these towns and the magical qualities they possess. In addition to the title, these towns are also protected by the government to prevent over development. While Cabo is filled with glamorous 5-star resorts, you won’t find large chain resorts in Todos Santos and most of the Baja Peninsula.

This summer, we stayed at the new Paradero Hotel located slightly north of the famous Cerritos Beach for 4 nights (and could have easily stayed a week!). We previously have stayed at Hotel San Cristobal (where we got engaged!), and I would highly recommend both. They are very different vibes – Hotel San Cristobal is more colorful and playful, while Paradero felt more natural and authentic. You can’t go wrong with either.

Visiting Todos Santos

The Baja peninsula receives temperate weather for the majority of the year. Although, late spring and fall are when you will likely have the best combination of great weather and manageable crowds. We went at the beginning of July. So, the weather was perfect for the outdoor activities that the region and resort offer. Todos Santos is home to one of the best beaches for surfing in all of Mexico, Cerritos Beach. Also, the surf instructors assure us the weather is fantastic to be in the water year-round.

Getting to Todos Santos is a fairly easy 1-hour drive or transport from Cabo. However, you can also fly into La Paz and rent a car to explore more of the region on your own. So, this came highly recommended by several locals.

Paradero Hotel Review

I can say without any hesitation that Paradero is one of my favorite hotels I have ever stayed in. Beyond the hotel itself, Paradero was an immersive experience – and a welcome one after the past year at home. Paradero is a new boutique property in Pescadero, a short drive from Todos Santos town. The hotel is a new luxury concept to not only the region but the entire country. The property emphasizes a holistic and environmentally conscious approach to hospitality. They build the on farmland and faces the desert as opposed to most resorts that are beachfront.

The property’s architecture and design are minimalist and neutral – with a heavy emphasis on natural materials and finishes, and concrete throughout the property to give an illusion of being built from the ground.

Each stay includes a variety of local excursions and activities, from surfing lessons and guided hikes to taco and mezcal tours, farming lessons, biking, and art walks. We took full advantage of the activities, while still finding plenty of time to relax on the property. Sunsets at the infinity pool were one of our favorite activities of the week.

Rooms

As far as rooms go, the property only has 35 suites. They divide the property between downstairs garden and mountain view suites, and upstairs suites that come with a private stargazing net. We came back one evening to a bonfire set up outside our bedroom. It was one of the most beautiful experiences I’ve had in some time.

And of course, you can’t forget about the food. Headed by chef Eduard Rios, a former sous chef at Pujol, one of Mexico City’s most famous fine-dining restaurants. At Paradero, do not miss the dining at the Open Kitchen. From the breakfast burritos and decadent French toast in the morning to the seasonal and local dinner menu in the evening. If you drink, be sure to do the mezcal tasting along with the taco tour. Also, sample some of the local Mexican wines with your meals.

Traveling During Covid

During this time, it’s important to keep a close eye on local travel guidelines and restrictions. The hotel provides rapid COVID tests on-site. They require this at the time to return to the United States.

By Amy Zhang May 10, 2021 in Travel 1 Comment

Santa Fe Roadtrip with Lexus

We got home a few days ago from over a week of road trips. It was honestly the best time. After a few nights more locally in San Diego and Santa Barbara, we drove all the way from Los Angeles to Santa Fe, New Mexico. Now that we’re fully vaccinated and starting to get out more, I initially thought to go somewhere by plane. But on second thought we decided to prioritize keeping our pup with us and decided to hit the road to visit a slightly more unexpected destination.

I’ve been wanting to explore the southwest part of the country more for some time. Last Christmas we were supposed to do a 2-week road trip from Los Angeles through Arizona, Utah, New Mexico, and West Texas. This was canceled last minute due to the surge in COVID-19 cases at the time. This is still on my list of things to do – but I was so excited to have the opportunity to visit Santa Fe (by way of Las Vegas) in partnership with Lexus.

Over the course of a week, we spent a LOT of time in the car. Fortunately, we drove a Lexus RX 450H on the trip and the car was an absolute dream. More on that below, as well as everything we did in Santa Fe and everything you need to know before visiting.

Lexus RX450H

As I mentioned above, Lexus was kind enough to partner with us for this trip. We test drove an RX450H and the drive was an absolute dream. Even the 9-hour leg between Las Vegas and Santa Fe was smooth and comfortable. We absolutely loved the car – the suspension, interior, safety features, and that it’s a hybrid! The panoramic view monitor made parallel parking a breeze – as someone who isn’t the biggest car person, I can tell you we were really obsessed with this particular vehicle. We’re now seriously considering it as our next vehicle – especially since the new version with the third row makes it incredibly family-friendly. You can find a great review of the vehicle here.

Santa Fe Roadtrip with Lexus

Where to stay

If it’s your first time visiting Santa Fe, I would suggest staying near the main plaza in town. The city isn’t very big, and most attractions and noteworthy spots will be walkable if you stay downtown. We stayed at La Fonda on the Plaza which was great and dog-friendly, the other option we considered (if you are looking for something higher end), was Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi.

When deciding what hotel to book, we usually consider how much time we will be spending in the room. On more active and itinerary-packed trips, we’ll usually opt to save a little on the hotel if we don’t anticipate being in the room for long. Both hotels are right next to the main plaza and are some of the best located in the city. The Rosewood is more luxurious and smaller, but we felt our hotel was also very comfortable and clean.

We also considered staying at El Rey Court, but decided against it ultimately. The location isn’t nearly as walkable and the reviews were mixed (ALWAYS do your research and plot out some key attractions in the city you’re visiting – location is everything). I did hear the bar, La Reina, is a great spot to grab a drink along Santa Fe’s Margarita Trail.

What to do

Santa Fe is an art lover’s dream – the desert surroundings combined with the rich cultural history of the region create a destination that feels at times otherwordly. You can easily see most of the city in a day or two, however, if I had the time I could easily spend over a week. If you love food, history, art, and the outdoors, you will love Santa Fe.

+ Vintage shopping – there are some incredibly curated shops in Santa Fe. Some of our favorites: Double Take, Kowboyz, Santa Fe Vintage (appointment only but the selection is some of the best I’ve ever seen!), and shiprocksantafe.com (more to look and admire than purchase, but it’s a must-see!). There are also countless little shops in the main downtown area that I don’t recall the names to that are

+ Museums – note: some museums and exhibits are still closed due to COVID-19. We really enjoyed the Georgia O’Keefe museum, which was small but well-curated. Be sure to book appointments and tickets at museums in advance, as they have limited reservations at this time.

+ Meow Wolf – an interactive art installation experience that you have to see to understand. It’s hard to describe, but a very fun experience that is worth a couple of hours.

+ Canyon Road galleries – spend a morning or afternoon walking along Canyon Road and stopping along the way at any galleries that catch your eye.

+ Wine tasting – we didn’t do this, but apparently, New Mexico has a very long history of producing wine! Gruet is probably the most well-known winery, they have a tasting room downtown and specialize in sparkling wines.

+ Hot springs – advance reservations are required, check out Ojo Caliente or Ten Thousand Waves Spa.

+ Hiking – there are miles of trails only 10 minutes away from the city, if you’re up for a short drive Bandelier National Monument is close and worth seeing.

Where to eat

+ Southwest cuisine – when in Rome (or when in New Mexico), southwest cuisine is a must! There are several spots that came highly recommended and it’s not hard to find, but my favorite spot was La Choza. I still dream of their chile rellenos and sopapillas. If you’re trying New Mexican chile for the first time, ask for “Christmas” (red and green chile) on your dish. Some other popular spots for more casual southwest cuisine – The Shed (La Choza’s sister restaurant right in town), Tune-Up Cafe, Tia Sophia’s, and The Pantry.

+ Vinaigrette – in between all the chile rellenos and burritos, I was seriously craving some greens. This seems to be a popular locals spot for farm to table salads (everything is grown on a local farm!). Think Sweetgreen, but much better.

+ Fine dining – there are a lot of options for fine dining in Santa Fe! Some that came highly recommended: Geronimo (generally agreed as the best restaurant in town), Sazon, and Coyote Cafe.

+ Margarita trail – we weren’t drinking this trip, but I hear Santa Fe is known for their margaritas! So much so that they even created a city-wide Margarita Trail – you can track your journey and visit various restaurants in towns, collecting passport stamps as you try each restaurant or bar’s signature margarita.

Why Santa Fe is on my list of places to return

Unfortunately, several of the activities and sights I wanted to do and see in Santa Fe were still closed due to COVID-19. In another trip to Santa Fe, these are some of the things I’m most excited to do:

+ Drive the high road to Taos and see the Taos Pueblos

+ Tour Georgia O’Keefe’s home at Ghost Ranch in Abiquiu

+ See the Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks

+ Visit White Sands National Park (a four hour drive from Santa Fe).

Essentials to Pack

+ A humidifier – even coming from Los Angeles (which is also technically a desert climate), Santa Fe felt noticeably drier. Many hotels will have these if you ask them, but we happened to bring our own because we drove. This was a lifesaver at night in our hotel room.

+ Moisturizers – again, a very dry climate calls for especially hydrating skincare products. I brought this Necessaire cream for my body and used this Dr. Jart mask at night before bed to keep my skin moisturized.

+ Liquid IV – we always travel with electrolytes, this comes in handy when you decide to have a few drinks or just aren’t drinking as much water as usual due to travel. I’ve been using this powder for years – use code THELUXILOOK for a 25% off and free shipping.

+ Layers and boots! The weather in Santa Fe has range. It went from cold and rainy to sunny and hot in the span of an hour. Again, desert highs and lows.

Trip map created using Wanderlog, for itineraries on iOS and Android

By Amy Zhang April 21, 2021 in Travel 1 Comment

Paso Robles Winery & Travel Guide

When you think of California wine country, your mind typically goes to Napa or Sonoma. However, the central coast of California is becoming increasingly popular and well-known for its winemaking. Located 3.5 hours from Los Angeles and San Francisco, Paso Robles is a relaxed wine country experience for wine novices and experts alike.

Even if you aren’t the biggest wine aficionado, there is still plenty to do along the central coast. In my opinion, Paso Robles feels a bit like Napa’s younger, more laid-back sibling. The town itself is small and charming, and the area is home to over 200 wineries of all different sizes. If you’re ready to plan your central coast wine tasting experience, read on for all the details you need to know.

Paso Robles Winery & Travel Guide

Where to Stay

There are several charming boutique hotels and B&Bs in the Paso Robles area, and several new hotels opening as the region becomes more developed and popular for tourism. However, if you can snag one of the 8 rooms at Geneseo Inn, do it! Located on the Cass Winery Property, Geneseo Inn is a charming boutique B&B and my favorite place I’ve stayed in Paso Robles. Each room is an individual shipping container situated directly off the vineyard.

Breakfast is brought to your room every morning (the eggs benedict were unreal!). You get to enjoy views of the vineyard and hills behind it as you have your morning coffee. The property also offers plenty of activities (from horseback riding to archery). They also have ample space to relax with a bottle of your favorite Paso wine. I can’t recommend it enough! Unfortunately, the rooms do book up several months in advance, but the experience is truly worth it.

For more walkable options, I have also heard great things about Hotel Cheval and The Piccolo, located conveniently in downtown Paso.

Where to Eat

The dining scene in Paso Robles is fairly limited, however, there are some standout options (and also some that are a bit hit or miss).

Fish Gaucho – a trip to Paso isn’t complete without a meal at Fish Gaucho. After a day of wine tasting, this is the spot to hit if you’re hungry and need a break from wine. They have great lunch specials, but we usually go for dinner. The happy hour is phenomenal, in particular their margaritas and ahi crudo. Their tacos and burritos are delicious as well, albeit a bit more pricey than your local taco stand.

Red Scooter – this casual deli is extremely popular among tourists and locals alike. During lunch hours there is typically a wait, but the line moves fast. I love their salads and sandwiches for a quick meal or to bring in the car on our drive home.

Les Petites Canailles – French food that is on the higher end for Paso. Nice if you are looking for a splurge or a special occasion meal. The best wine list I’ve seen in Paso.

Thomas Hill Organics – I really wanted to love this restaurant – although the food is decent (if you’re familiar with California style cuisine that is based in local and organic produce), and the service was poor enough to leave a bad taste in our mouths. We would try it again because the patio is cute and our waitress was so sweet, and hoping the problems were simply due to someone having an “off night.”

Paso Robles Wine Tasting

I was blown away when I first learned Paso Robles is home to over 200 wineries! We tend to gravitate towards smaller, family-owned boutique wineries and tastings, but there are so many great tasting rooms of all sizes. Paso wines are quite different than Napa/Sonoma – Rhone varietals are very popular here, which means (in my wine novice terms), bigger and fruitier reds than Northern California.

Most wineries will have a GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre) blend, so that’s always a great place to start if you don’t know what to try. The region isn’t as known for their Pinots or white wines, but you can find both if you try – just keep in mind the climate and terroir is quite different than Napa, so the wines will be significantly different in taste.

Paso Robles Winery

Our favorite tasting rooms in Paso are Clos Solene, Law, and Torrin – all are reservation only and are not sold in large quantities outside of their membership. These are on the higher end of Paso wineries, but they are worth the price and experience. I’m no sommelier, so I won’t attempt to describe the wines, but they are (in my opinion), delicious! Especially if you love red wine.

For something a little more laid back, I’d recommend checking out Tin City. We love this bright and lively corner of wineries in Paso. It feels a bit like the Funk Zone in Santa Barbara, where there are several tasting rooms of up-and-coming winemakers in a condensed, walkable area. The sheep’s milk ice cream at Negranti is not to be missed, either! Our favorite wineries in Tin City are Benom and Jacob Toft.

If it’s your first time in Paso and you want to get a feel for the region, you may also want to check out some of the larger and more established wineries. I’d suggest L’Aventure (French style winemaking in Paso), Daou for the views alone, and Booker.

Of course, don’t drink and drive! Uber is an option in Paso, or you can always book a private driver for the day. Most wineries will also allow you to split tastings if you want to try the wines but don’t want the entire tasting for yourself.

If you’re staying in the region for longer than a few days and want to take a break from wine tasting, I’d suggest driving to the beaches in San Luis Obispo for a day or two. Cambria, Morro Bay, and Avila Beach are small, quaint beachside towns worth a visit. I’ve also been dying to visit and stay at the Madonna Inn for an evening.

What are your central coast must-dos?

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