Travel Diary: Scenes from Sardinia

If Sardinia isn’t on your summer holiday radar yet, it needs to be! Sardinia is the second-largest island in the Mediterranean (after Sicily!) and is a perfect destination for the summer. We just came back from 5 days on the island and it was the best way to end summer. Note that September in Italy marks the end of the high season as the European summer vacationers have left and the weather becomes more unpredictable. On the bright side, this means fewer crowds and tourists – which is an absolute win in my book. We loved Sardinia for many reasons (the food, kind people, beautiful landscape and beaches to name just a few…) but what stood out to us was how the island felt so much less developed and touristy than some other popular European holiday destinations. See below for some of the highlights from our time in Sardinia.

How to get there

From the states, particularly the west coast, getting to Sardinia is a trek! For Europeans, it is a much easier trip to make. We flew from Milan – the island has 3 airports (Olbia, Cagliari, and Alghero) so depending on where you are staying you will want to choose the airport accordingly. Once you are there, I highly recommend renting a car so you can explore more of the island.

When to visit

Sardinia is an island largely driven by tourism in the summer. So, the best time of year to visit is (in my opinion) between May and September. By the time we were on the island in mid-September, some of the beach bars and restaurants were already closed. Tour groups were also showing limited availability. Of course, in July and August, you will be battling much larger crowds. If you do go in the summer, make sure to book rental cars, restaurant reservations, and activities further in advance as things do book up quickly!

Where to stay

We split our time between Olbia and Cagliari. Each of the main cities has something different to offer. Olbia was much closer to Porto Cervo and the beaches along the northern coast of the island. Cagliari was a much larger city and seemed to have more to offer in terms of restaurants and nightlife. It really depends on what kind of vacation you’re looking for. If you are looking for something more ritzy and glamorous, I would look into a resort along Costa Smeralda (the Emerald Coast). Cala di Volpe is the most famous resort in the area. I heard wonderful things about Su Gologone (and their restaurant!) which is further inland as well. Airbnb isn’t as big of a thing in Sardinia (yet) but is also an option I always love when traveling abroad.

What to do

+ Sail around the island

one of our favorite things we did on the trip. You can go with a group or rent your own dinghy for the day. Go from cove to cove to swim in the crystal clear waters.

+ Explore the island by car

again, I highly recommend exploring the island by car. There are so many beautiful beaches tucked away along the coast that you need a car in order to visit (note – the roads are extremely narrow and windy in many parts!). If beaches aren’t your things, Sardinia is also known for archaeological sites and caves. There is so much history on the island!

+ Eat at an agriturismo

these are farmhouses that double as B&Bs and restaurants. Typically for between 30-40 euros per person, you are served a Sardinian feast complete with aperitivo, wine, and several courses of pasta, meat, and fish. It is not a luxury dining experience, but very homey and delicious. If you are looking for something for upscale, there are many fine dining options in Porto Cervo and the surrounding area. Be sure to try traditional Sardinian dishes such as spaghetti with bottarga (salted, cured fish roe), suckling pig, and fregola.

+  Spend a day in Costa Smeralda

Sardinia’s Emerald Coast is renowned for its beautiful beaches and water. This is the area where you will find the nicest resorts and subsequently the highest prices. However, it is absolutely worth it to spend a day wandering around the shops in Porto Cervo and having aperitivo along the water.

+ Spend a day in Cagliari

walk off some of the pasta by wandering through the town (there is a bit of a hike to get to the top of the city where you will find the best views!) and stop along the way to visit local shops and have an espresso. The market is not to be missed, as well.